Article by: Regis St. Louis, January 2008
If you’re looking for a rustic, relaxing, island break, why not bag yourself a hammock on the beaches of San Blas?
The San Blas Archipelago, part of the Comarca de Kuna Yala, is a chain of approximately 400 islands stretching along the Caribbean coast of Panama. Picture football field-sized cays covered with palm trees, ringed with pearl-bright beaches fronting the dazzling Caribbean Sea. Small indigenous villages cover some of the islands, while others remain uninhabited. Accommodation here is pretty rustic (think no air-conditioning, no hot water, and a hammock for a bed), while ‘restaurants’ are often little more than a shack with a picnic table atop a sandy floor; thus a luxury vacation is not an option. But if you’re looking for a unique stay on pretty Caribbean shores while discovering Panama’s fascinating indigenous islanders, San Blas is an ideal destination.
Land of the Kuna
No matter where you go here, you’ll rub elbows with the colourful Kuna people. Kuna Yala, which means ‘Land of the Kuna’, is ruled by the Kuna Indians, an indigenous group numbering some 40,000. The Kuna have managed to maintain their language and customs despite centuries of outside intervention. They gained autonomy in the 1950s and have made their own laws and managed their own economy ever since. They survive on fishing, coconuts (which they harvest and trade with Colombia) and tourism. Although men wear western clothes (t-shirts, shorts, baseball caps – this is the tropics after all), women still adorn themselves with the rich colours of their native dress. Bright, geometric beadwork decorates their wrists and arms, red or blue sarongs are wrapped around their waists, and their blouses display entrancing molas, colorful hand-stitched appliqu?s of sea turtles, birds or elaborate seascapes. A headscarf, a nose ring and face-painting (a dotted line from forehead to nose) complete the ensemble.
The languid pace of island life here can be extremely addictive.
The languid pace of island life here can be extremely addictive. You can lounge away the afternoon in a hammock while the sea laps hypnotically at the shore, or head out to other islands and snorkel the nearby coral reefs and shipwrecks. The Kuna lead hikes through rainforest on the mainland and show you through some of their most traditional villages, where you can trade stories with locals who are often eager to meet outsiders. The Kuna can also help you get in touch with your inner Robinson Crusoe by dropping you off on one of the uninhabited islands, which you might have entirely to yourself. Just don’t forget to tell your boat captain what time to pick you up.
Sleeping
Although prices are higher on the islands than elsewhere in Panama, you can still enjoy a Caribbean retreat without breaking the bank. There are a handful of small, family-run hotels scattered about the archipelago, though a favourite with budget travellers is Robinson’s Cabins (tel: 299 9058) near the Rio Sidra airstrip. Accommodations consist of rustic bamboo huts with hammocks and include three meals a day for around US$25 per person. There’s decent snorkelling off the island, and the friendly Robinsons can take you to other islands in the area too.
You can trade stories with locals who are often eager to meet outsiders.
For a slightly more upscale experience, opt for the Dolphin Island Lodge, which is accessible via the Achutupo airstrip. Here you’ll find 14 comfortable stand-alone cabins with private, cold-water bathrooms. There’s a pleasant restaurant overlooking the sea that serves good seafood and catches a nice breeze. Rates are around US$250 for a double, which includes all meals, plus boating/snorkelling tours during the day. The staff can help arrange tours to other islands as well. Access is via the Mamitupu airstrip.
A similar experience can be had at Sapibenega Lodge. Here you’ll find handsome thatch-roof cabins with wood floors, a balcony with hammocks and solar-powered electricity. Rates are around US$250 per double, with all meals and activities included. This is accessed via the Playon Chico airstrip.
Useful Advice
The Kuna welcome visitors to the island, but guests are expected to observe a few basic customs. On inhabited islands, travellers will be asked to pay a one-time visitation fee, usually around US$3-6. In villages, women should not walk around in bikini tops or shorts (sarongs come in handy); men should keep their shirts on. Obviously, on uninhabited islands, this is not an issue. Be respectful about taking snapshots. Kunas don’t mind posing for photos, but you’ll be asked to pay for it (anywhere from US$0.25 to US$1 per photo). Video cameras are best left at home.
Reaching the Islands
The only practical way to get to San Blas is to fly. Two companies offer flights from Panama’s domestic Albrook Airport to airstrips throughout the archipelago: Aeroperlas and Air Panama charge between US$90 and US$120 round trip from Panama City. Demand often exceeds supply so book your flight as far in advance as possible.
Children of the Moon
In a quirk of genetics, the Kuna Yala have one of the highest rates of albinism in the world. In the US and Western Europe, albinism occurs on a rate of about 1 in 35,000. In the Kuna community, the rate is 1 in 165. Given the tropical setting, one would think these pale, easily sunburned individuals would face serious discrimination but in fact they are revered and considered ‘children of the moon’. Their reverence stems from Kuna creation tales, which describes God sending his albino son into the world to teach humans how to live. Thus, the Kuna believe albinos are endowed with inordinate wisdom, and may even have supernatural powers, such as the gift of healing or the ability to foretell the future. Albinos often grow up to play a pivotal role in the community, becoming political leaders, shamans or entrepreneurs.?
